The first time I had grilled fish collars, I was at a local sushi restaurant. It was a revelation- to this day, it was one of the best things I've ever had. The hamachi collar was lightly charred and the meat that I pulled away from the bone was juicy, with an amazing texture. Each pocket of meat had a slightly different feel- it reminded me of crab meat, with its linear structure and firm but melty texture. They served it simply, with some ponzu and a side of rice. 

A few years later, I was cleaning a rockfish on the tailgate of my truck, and right before I tossed the head in the bucket full of fish parts bound for the end of the boat ramp, I decided to cut the collars out. I grilled them, and we ate them with a slice of lemon and some sea rocket and sea beans we had foraged that day. 

It was a memorable meal.

After that, I started keeping all the collars from the bigger fish we caught. Rockfish (or striped bass if you’re not from the Chesapeake Bay area), snakeheads, and cobia are the fish we commonly pursue with collars worth saving. A keeper-sized cobia yields a pair of collars that is enough for one meal or two very generous appetizers. If we’re not planning on cooking the collars the same day we catch the fish, we’ll freeze them until we’ve built up a hoard of them, and then cook them all at once and pick them like crabs.

Grilled Cobia Collars with Yuzu Ponzu

Cook time: 35 minutes

Serves: 4-6

Ingredients:

Yuzu Ponzu-

1 cup light colored stock (chicken or similar)

½ cup soy sauce

¼ cup rice wine vinegar

2 tbsp sugar

¼ cup yuzu juice (sub lemon+lime juice)

2” ginger, peeled, minced

4-6 garlic cloves, minced

Collars:

As many fish collars as you want

Oil

Salt

Method:

Make the ponzu- Combine all ingredients, stir and simmer until reduced to about half. Allow to cool.

Cut out the collars. Collars can be a bit of a pain to cut out, especially if the fish has thick skin and a heavy bone structure, but it's worth it every time. A stout knife paired with a mallet makes it easier. Trim the gills and any loose connective tissue from the collars.

Season with a little salt, drizzle with oil and grill over high heat for 2-4 minutes on each side. 

Serve with chopsticks and rice, but don't be afraid to use your hands.