Tartare is one of those classic dishes whose popularity waxes and wanes over the years, but right now is seeing a serious revival. With the rise of “nose-to-tail” cooking and an emphasis on high-quality, local meats, tartare is on the upswing, and with good reason. Its simplicity allows the natural flavors and texture of the meat to shine, and it is endlessly adaptable. The key to a great tartare is a balance of bright flavors paired with the deep umami of the meat, and a variety of textures.
This is more of a guideline and methodology than a recipe. Tartare is best left up to the interpretation of the cook. Finding a balance of fat, salt, acid, crunch and umami with various ingredients can be painstakingly methodical or as simple are rummaging through the condiments in the fridge. Classic tartare ingredients would include shallots, chives, egg yolk, salt, pepper, cornichons, lemon, and dijon.
We created this dish with goose breast, but any wild game you’re comfortable serving rare works here- venison, duck, moose, elk, etc. Tenderloin and backstrap are a shoo-in for this dish, but other cuts also shine, like sirloin, tri-tip, or eye of round, to name a few. Tougher cuts can also yield great results, but it depends on the texture you desire. If you’re using any sort of waterfowl, use the breasts and remove the skin. If you want to go the extra mile, make duck or goose chicharrones to pair with the tartare.
As with any preparation involving rare meat, be sure that your cut has been handled carefully in regards to temperature from beginning to end. We have omitted measurements and quantities in this recipe- start lightly & adjust proportions as you go, tasting often, for the best result.
goose breast tartare
Prep time: 20 minutes active, 30 minutes inactive
Serves: ~4 as an h’or d’oeuvre
Ingredients:
Tender red meat, trimmed of fat, silver skin and tough bits.
Oil cured kalamata olives, pitted and chopped fine
Extra virgin olive oil
Capers, roughly chopped
Shallot, finely chopped
Shaved parmesan
Parsely, finely chopped
Lemon zest
Lemon juice
Sea salt
Fresh coarsely ground peppercorns
Shaved parmesan cheese for garnish
Egg yolk, separated
Method:
Place meat in freezer for 20-30 minutes until firm but not frozen. Cut across the grain in even ⅛-¼” slices. Stack slices and cut lengthwise the same diameter. Stack again and cut crosswise to form small cubes. Place in fridge or in mixing bowl over ice.
Mix together all other ingredients except the egg yolk and parmesan cheese. Add to the chopped meat and stir to evenly distribute. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Using a food ring or cookie cutter, press the tartare onto the serving platter. Create a shallow depression in the center and nestle in the unbroken egg yolk. Garnish with shaved parmesan cheese and serve with crackers or toast points.
